Lite Blue Twill Bengal
Size, Fit & Custom Measurments
These sizes are the same as those used in all Axel’s Signature Collection shirts. You may add custom measurements for any or all of the following: collar size, sleeve length, shoulder width, and shirt length. It is ok to leave fields blank. Blank fields will use the default measurements for your selected size. Our self-measuring guide can help you determine your unique measurements.
Fit determines how trimly the shirt's body and sleeves follow the lines of your form. Slim fit has a modern, athletic silhouette, while Regular follows a straighter, more traditional tailored cut. Fit choice does not affect custom measurements.
Athletic fit: contemporary interpretation of the classic cut; trim fit subtly accents wearer’s profile
Regular fit: traditionally inspired cut; asserts a straight, clean, mature silhouette
Spread Collar: Also known as the cutaway collar, the spread collar is associated with British style much like the button down is with America's. Its origins are more formal, but the spread can also add some rakish elegance to a casual look.
Button Down Collar: Inspired by polo players who buttoned down their collar to keep them from flapping around while riding. Popularized in the 1950s, it remains an iconic American look and a staple of casually graceful style.
Two-Button Barrel Cuff: originally designed for doctors, who needed to dress sharply while still easily rolling up their sleeves (and not worrying about lost cufflinks). It also better accommodates large wristwatches. Not informal, but certainly less formal and more versatile than the French cuff.
French Cuff: distinguished by the use of cufflinks instead of buttons, the French cuff suggests a more formal look. Like the Spread collar, of course, it can be used casually to create a tasteful contrast.
French Front: the French front foregoes the placket, allowing a clean appearance that lends itself to formality as well as good-spirited irreverence (not to mention easier ironing).
Placket: the placket is an extra piece of fabric sewn down the shirt’s face that creates a linear, centered visual balance. Complements lighter fabrics better than heavy ones.
Generally, pockets are associated with a lesser degree of formality, while pocket-less shirts more often accompany suits.
To get the most accurate measurements, stand in a relaxed and natural posture. This is how you stand at an evening-long cocktail party, not how you pose in front of a mirror. Unless otherwise directed, hold the measuring tape firmly, but not tightly, against the skin. It’s also fine to measure over a T-shirt, but anything bulkier will distort results. It is ok to round up to the nearest half-inch, but please do not include additional inches (unless otherwise directed). Different measurements have different standards for additional inches of fabric—we will account for those.
Standard shirt sizes (S, M, L, etc.) offer a useful starting point—see the size chart below for reference. Take note of any issues you have with your normal size, and direct extra attention to these measurements. For example, if you typically wear a size Large but often find your sleeves a bit too short, your arms might actually be 36 inches long. Let us know, and we’ll get your custom fit just right. Next we’ll cover how to conduct each measurement.
Lay the measuring tape just above the collarbone, measuring the circumference of the neck and leaving enough slack in the tape to fit one finger (~¼ inch) between the tape and skin.
With arms relaxed and at one’s side (natural bend is ok), measure from the top of the spine (where the neck meets the back) to the tip of the shoulder, continuing down the arm, and stopping midway between the wrist and the thumb’s MP joint (middle of the thumb’s three joints). Sleeve length is a difficult self-measurement, so it may be helpful also to measure the length of a shirtsleeve known to fit well. Measure the shirt the same way as before: middle of the collar to the seam of the shoulder, continuing down to the tip of the cuff. For a shirt you primarily intend to wear with a coat, add ¼ inch to this measurement so that the cuff will show appropriately.
Place the measuring tape level with the sternum, measuring the circumference of the chest. This measurement should be firm—not leaving slack like the collar, but not constricting the chest either.
The shoulders are measured similarly to the sleeves. The tape measure should make a line, point-to-point, from the tip of one shoulder to the other, with the top of the spine as the middle point. Shoulder shape and slope can vary—those with sloping shoulders or high, almost shrugging shoulders should make a note in the “Custom Sizing Preferences” section.
What to Expect
We’ll work with you every step of the way, taking the time to get it right from first cut to last. We’ll walk you through a seven-stage design process covering broader questions, such as fabric, fit, and sizing, and more specific detailing such as cuff, collar, pocket & front styles. Our hope is to offer our technical and stylistic knowledge as a guide, informing—not directing—your selections.
The design and ordering process can take as long as you’d like. Production and delivery, from click to cut to doorstep, typically takes 4-6 weeks. It’s worth the time—your custom shirt will be made with quality and style to last through the years. All MTM shirt sales are final.